Soundtrack: Greener by Nyashinski (for the spotify users out there)
My feet on the ground... my head is still in the air or stuck somewhere at customs.
Disbelief is the presiding feeling during my first moments on Tanzanian soil.
Deplaning was simple and upon entry the Tanzanian security agent checked my temperature and took a form I had filled out on the plane stating that I was not sick and had not been in contact with anyone that was. Straight on to collect my two suitcases filled to the brim with medical equipment, both for the studies and for donation. Whispering to myself "I hope everything is still there". As is to be expected with a relatively empty airplane all of the 40 or so bags were waiting neatly for us in the baggage hall. I grabbed my suitcases and within 5 minutes was walking towards the door. How did I get this... lucky? or rather here? with all my stuff? I silently thought to myself. As I nonchalantly made my way to the "nothing to declare" section I was beckoned over to scan my luggage to leave the terminal. Compared to the smooth sailing I had had up until this point a small hint of stress reared its head inside me. I placed everything on the x-ray machine and waited patiently for the guard to speak his mind. I glanced over into the arrivals hall and saw Dr. Yasser at the door chatting with a fellow security guard.
"Sir, what are all of these devices in your bags?" the guard asked me slightly surprised and worried. I quickly went to my bags to grab the documentation for the study and for the donations and mentioned that I was a medical student with medical donation for Muhimbili National Hospital. The guard looked at me with a confused and slightly suspicious stare as I desperately pressed the papers into his hands. I pointed at the Muhimbili letterhead and mentioned that I was from the Netherlands and that these were strictly for donation. He scanned me once more for suspicion looked at the length of the letters and let me go. As I gathered my things from the belt I felt 3 pairs of eyes watching me to see my reaction. I don't know if they saw my relief but its safe to say I was a little relieved as I had passed the final potential checkpoint of trouble. I passed through the threshold and greeted Dr. Yasser. Without hestitation he extended his hand to greet me. Faux-pas in the Netherlands I thought. But deciding first impressions were more important than my newly acquired Corona boundaries I heartily shook his hand. I was happy to see him and to be here.
I packed my bags into his Safari truck relieved that I had made it from here it would be a short ride to my lodging.. or so I thought.
We made small talk about the medical profession and differences between cultures, my previous trip to Tanzania a decade ago. We were still getting to know eachother but it was pretty clear that we would get along. Hesitantly I broached the subject of Corona and shared my experience coming from a country in lockdown and being in relative isolation for 4 months. As we made our way into the heart of Dar, with all of its smells and sounds, a familiar feeling started to settle in.
"Have you eaten yet?" Dr. Yasser said to me calmly. I responded that I had on the plane but that I was up for a bite. Glancing at my watch it was already 10:30. "What do you like to eat" he kindly asked me. I told him I'd take his best recommendation and he smiled.
We turned the corner and pulled into a small well lit lot with two soccer fields where people enthusiastically were playing football in the humid heat. I think I may have been staring as if I was staring into the past jaw slightly agape.
In the back corner was a small building with a barbecue and juice bar. As we got out of the car I realized that I was unsure about mask etiquette and about my own boundaries concerning it. I had been enjoying the 20 minute drive since the airport mask free, following Dr. Yasser's lead. I grabbed my mask just in case but didn't put it on, we were outside after all, I'd keep my distance. Before I could blink people descended on us with hands (and smiles). CORONASTRESS! It was Dr. Yasser's cousin Zacaria the operator of the small cafe. After a short introduction to Kiswahili we were beckoned over to the tables. With my phone and my hand sanitizer I ventured forth.
Dr. Yasser told me that he was the owner of Soka Park. He had built the turf fields almost a year ago in an unused lot as a gathering point for the community directly on the border of Kariakoo (his neighborhood) and Upanga (the neighborhood Muhimibil was in and I would be staying in). It became clear that we were on friendly territory and why I was being treated as VIP. We were served delicious tea sweetened with fresh milk from his farm outside of town (a man with many hats), fresh made juices, and a typical Tanzanian meal. While eating together he told me that he wasn't just going to open a snackbar on his sport terrain he wanted the freshest and tastiest ingredients. While eating a man approached the table with his child. Without hesitation Dr. Yasser greeted him and took the small child on his lap taking a short history from the father. The child had ear pain. And I got to witness my first impromptu consult in Tanzania while eating the last bites of my dinner.
Mtitu House
When I arrived there was but one thing on my mind rest. The next morning at the request of my family I snapped some pictures of my lodging an AirBNB owned by another doctor at the hospital. One of Dr. Yasser's colleagues. Here I would be staying for the coming 2 months. This is my home base. Far above the standard for an average Tanzanian.
It was time to unpack my carefully constructed tetris of work clothes, trekking clothes, casual, medical devices hidden away. I had packed the most important one in the bottom of my daypack for Kilimanjaro. One suitcase pictured on the right was completely filled to the brim with the remaining devices and medical disposables from the hospital in Apeldoorn. Its not often that the volume of my packing supersedes the weight limit of international flying. Packing these light disposables in the most efficient way for international travel and safety for the study was an interesting spatial challenge.
I prepped my medical accoutrements scanned the first pages of my medical Kiswahili guidebook and packed my bags for my short introduction at the hospital. I didn't know what to expect, so I decided to not expect anything.
My first day was a short one, consisting of meeting the team I would be working with on my research project for the RSVGold III -ICU Network Study and also the skilled team of doctors, nurses, and students maintaining the watch on day and night on Muhimbili's pediatric ICU. Everyone was overwhelmingly friendly and welcoming. I was able to attend rounds and to get my bearings for what a day on the PICU looks like.
Despite its length, the day was quite tiring, I'm not used to the heat yet and in general I fare better in a moderate climate. Thankfully the PICU is the only ward in the building with air conditioning, small blessings. It will make the transition getting used to these temperatures nicer. By Dutch standards of timing and organizations the day was chaotic. We can quickly judge this to be better or worse depending on where we come from. My goal here is not to judge but to learn cross-culturally. It was clear the learning curve would be steep. More to follow later... for now rest, recover, and rounds!
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